China Luxury Label Icicle Hires Former Gucci Head Sabato De Sarno

China’s Icicle hired former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno on Monday to lead its design operations across ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear.

His debut collection for the Shanghai-based fashion house will arrive for the autumn/winter 2027-2028 season.

The Kering connection and design scope

De Sarno takes direct control of creative direction for both women’s and men’s lines. The Italian designer previously ran design at Gucci, the flagship label of French luxury group Kering.

The appointment deepens ties between the two businesses. Kering took a minority stake in Icicle in April 2026, giving the Chinese brand financial backing and direct access to European luxury executive networks.

Chinese brands buying European prestige

Chinese fashion groups are increasingly hiring established European designers to push their brands upmarket and expand outside mainland China. Icicle built its domestic business on high-end natural fabrics and understated cuts, but matching European heritage houses requires international design pedigree.

The approach carries clear execution risks. Integrating European creative directors into Chinese corporate structures has produced mixed commercial returns, requiring labels to balance Western aesthetic direction with a core domestic customer base that values different proportions and styling.

Precedents across the domestic sector

Down-jacket specialist Bosideng followed the same playbook in 2025 when it hired British designer Kim Jones to lead its luxury line, Areal. French luxury group Hermes took a similar path with Shang Xia, which hired London-based designer Yang Li in 2021.

Icicle is now preparing its production pipeline and marketing rollout ahead of De Sarno’s first autumn/winter 2027-2028 show.