South Koreans Bid Farewell to Dog Meat Tradition Ahead of Nationwide Ban

Historically, the three warmest days of summer were the busiest times for South Korea’s dog meat eateries, with customers seeking traditional foods reputed to boost stamina during the intense heat. However, on the third of the hottest days, known as “boknal,” in 2026, a sense of finality was felt. This marked the last boknal before the total ban on breeding, slaughtering, and selling dogs for meat, which is set to be fully implemented in February 2027.

At the Moran Market in Seongnam, once the country’s most prominent center for dog meat, lunch-goers continued to flock to the alleys filled with restaurants. Yet, many of these eateries have transitioned to serving other options like black goat stew, and the majority of customers who still ordered “bosintang” or dog meat stew, were predominantly elderly.

Changing Times

Kim Yong-book, the head of the Moran Market Merchants’ Association, lamented the decline. Kim, who has been working in the area near Seoul for over 40 years, described it as now being “a town of old people.” The ban marks a significant shift in South Korean culture, reflecting changing attitudes towards animal welfare as pet ownership increases.

A 2024 survey showed that over 90% of 2,000 respondents had no intention of eating dog meat in the future, and over 80% supported the ban. Almost 95% stated they hadn’t eaten dog meat in the preceding year.

The ban’s implementation will impact over 5,600 businesses, according to government data. However, officials have noted that most dog farms had already ceased operations in anticipation of the upcoming 2027 deadline.

The Uncertain Road Ahead

While some, like restaurant owner and former merchants’ association chairman Lee Kang-chun, agree with the ban considering South Korea’s global image and evolving societal attitudes, they also feel a sense of melancholy. Lee finds it particularly distressing when elderly customers, who believe the dish restores strength, leave his restaurant disappointed after traveling long distances only to find no dog meat available.

Despite increasing supply costs and dwindling profits, Lee continues to serve the dish primarily for his loyal customers. He believes the authorities should provide more assistance to elderly vendors transitioning to new business models. Many Moran Market restaurants have switched to serving black goat stew, marketed as a health food, but owners report that the transition has been challenging and the new dish hasn’t compensated for the lost dog meat sales.