Shein Shrinks Vietnam Operations Amid US Trade Policy Shifts and Local Workforce Challenges

Over a year ago, Chinese fast-fashion retailer Shein embarked on an ambitious plan to make Vietnam its main export base. Shein started leasing 15 hectares of warehouse facilities near Ho Chi Minh City, which is approximately the size of 21 football pitches. The strategy seemed to be a high-risk, high-reward approach during its conception in late 2024.

At that time, the US seemed likely to scrap its duty exemptions for small parcels from China, which formed the backbone of Shein’s business model. Simultaneously, the newly re-elected US President Donald Trump was fueling apprehensions about an intensified trade war. By April 2025, US tariffs on numerous Chinese commodities had soared to an astounding 145%. This environment prompted Shein to encourage its major Chinese suppliers to establish manufacturing bases in Vietnam.

A Sudden Change of Plans

However, this ambitious plan has not unfolded as Shein had hoped. Presently, Shein, which is preparing for its Initial Public Offering (IPO), has significantly scaled back its operations in Vietnam. The company, popular for its affordable range of apparel, has reduced its leased area to 6 hectares from the original 15, according to insiders familiar with the matter. One individual with direct knowledge of the situation even suggests that only one-third of the initially planned site is currently operational.

Since April, the company has started massive layoffs, with more expected to follow. Warehouse workers have reported significant downsizing, with some teams retaining only a quarter of their workforce, while others have experienced even more layoffs. During a recent site visit, only a few employees and a handful of trucks were observed, indicating a sharp contrast to the bustling activities in adjacent warehouses.

Scalability and Speed Over Tariffs

Contributing factors to Shein’s decision to scale back include abrupt shifts in US trade policies, the company’s heavy reliance on Chinese suppliers, and the realization that manufacturers in other countries may not accept the same supplier conditions. Moreover, Vietnamese workers have shown reluctance to work the long hours for low wages, a business model Shein’s Chinese network of suppliers complied with.

Shein’s business model depends on speed and flexibility, producing millions of styles in small batches at very low margins. However, manufacturers who moved their operations to Vietnam have found it less viable due to lower efficiency and have subsequently returned to China.

As a result, Shein is now focusing more on its operations in Guangzhou and the broader Guangdong province. CEO Sky Xu announced a plan to invest 10 billion yuan (US$1.5 billion) in a smart supply-chain system in the region.

Despite Shein’s recommitment to China, some domestic suppliers are hesitant to reciprocate, as they have experienced stagnation or minimal growth in orders from Shein. Some have begun supplementing their income by opening stores on other e-commerce platforms.