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Fashion

Kering Redirects up to €300 Million to Asia as Regional Sales Grow 12 per Cent

By Maria SantosChina
2 min read
FILE PHOTO: The logo of French luxury group Kering in Paris
FILE PHOTO: The logo of French luxury group Kering in Paris
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Kering has reallocated up to €300 million in capital toward Asia-Pacific markets as regional sales growth of 8 to 12 per cent outpaced softer Western demand across its fashion portfolio.

Asian territories now generate nearly half of total group revenue, led by Greater China at 20 to 25 per cent, Japan at 8 to 10 per cent, and the rest of Asia-Pacific contributing 10 to 15 per cent.

Where the Revenue Comes From

Direct-to-consumer flagship boutiques in cities like Shanghai and Tokyo anchor the group’s regional retail network, capturing full-margin sales. Wholesale partnerships with upscale department stores account for 35 to 40 per cent of total volume, while digital commerce platforms generate 15 to 20 per cent. The standalone eyewear division adds between €1.5 billion and €2 billion annually across all licensed and owned lines.

Yves Saint Laurent proved the strongest performer in the region. The label expanded at annual rates of 25 to 30 per cent in Asian markets between 2019 and 2023, lifting global house sales from €3.18 billion in 2022 to an estimated €3.7 billion by 2024.

Brand Performance and Capital Shifts

Gucci remains the conglomerate’s largest single cash generator, producing roughly €9.5 billion in 2024 revenue. Its share of group intake fell from 52 per cent in 2022 to 48 per cent, prompting management to divert capital toward faster-growing labels and regional retail upgrades.

Bottega Veneta generated between €1.8 billion and €1.95 billion with gross margins reaching 68 per cent, driven by leather goods demand. Balenciaga showed signs of recovery with projected growth of 5 to 8 per cent after revenues contracted 15 per cent during 2023.

European luxury groups spent the past two years reassessing their heavy reliance on flagship labels in Asia. While rivals like LVMH diversified early across jewellery and hospitality, Kering’s concentrated bets on fashion houses make regional retail productivity critical to its bottom line.

Management continues to review smaller portfolio brands generating under €200 million annually, with further divestment decisions expected as capital shifts to primary retail hubs.

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